Today I went down to Caborca (yesterday’s original destination). Nothing too interesting except some shot up trash cans.
Then took a smaller road to Tubutama. On the way there, I decided to take a break and used the shadow and the bench of a small chapel in the middle of nowhere. For reasons unknown to me, there was a used pistol cartridge on the ground in the chapel. The people from Sonora sure like to shoot.
I stayed there for an hour and a half trying to read the first few pages of Isabel Allende’s “Retrato en Sepia”, but my Spanish isn’t really up to the task yet. I only got to page two. After checking out lake Cuauhtémoc I went on to Tubutama, hoping to get something to eat. Every single shop, bar and restaurant was closed.
I rode around a bit until I found an old man who told me tat they would open at four. It was already a quarter past three, so I just slept on a bench for a while. At for, a tiny grocery store opened, but they didn’t have anything except chips and soda, and the old woman running it was very unhelpful. So I bought Mexico’s most expensive water and chips and went on to today’s destination, Magdalena.
Here I’m at the most luxurious hotel of the trip so far (I see a trend here). Magdalena is pretty big and has a nice downtown, where I ate some gorditas - awesome, why did I never see that in SF?

Tomorrow I’m going to try to find my way across the desert, but since I don’t have a map and the GPS doesn’t have the trails, that’s probably a stupid idea. I’m going to get some extra food and water later, just in case. If Google maps is to be trusted, it should be possible.

